We recently had the privilege of a culinary experience not quite like any I have experienced before. This was my first foray into the world of Michelin Star dining. Though a chef in my previous life, I had not had the means and/or opportunity to do so, before.
This was also my first trip to Portugal. As such, I had little to compare it to, not only in cuisine, but overall essence. By the time we had arrived at Alma, the 2 Michelin Star offering from Lisbon Chef (read: “culinary genius”) Henrique Sá Pessoa, we were already drunk on the art, culture and soul of Portugal – but, that is for another time. For now – let’s head off on a 7(ish) course tasting menu by one of the best living Chef’s in the World, today.
Lisbon, where cobbled streets wind through neighborhoods steeped in history. Also, home to Alma – a gastronomic haven that transcends the ordinary. Visiting Alma is akin to embarking on a journey of flavors, a pilgrimage into the soul of Portuguese cuisine. This isn’t just a meal; it’s an exploration of tradition, innovation, and the essence of Lisbon’s culinary spirit.
Alma, Lisbon: The Ambiance
From the moment that you reach the unassuming green front door of Alma, it is evident that ambiance is taken seriously. A delicate balance of modern minimalism and rustic warmth, setting the stage for the gastronomic spectacle about to unfold.
The air is alive with the rhythmic dance of culinary artistry, from the moment you walk in the door and are greeted with the open kitchen scenery. The brainchild of Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa, Alma has become a beacon in Lisbon’s culinary scene, where tradition meets avant-garde in a harmonious marriage of flavors.
Before we even get into the food – I would like to note – Alma is a well oiled machine in regards to service. Never did our drinks go empty and, likewise, I was unable to even stand up from my seat before one of the restaurant’s service staff were by my side, at the ready to walk me to the restroom. A true feat given the child size bladder I was blessed with. Additionally, no course was served without both mine, and Leena’s plates hitting the table at the exact same moment, down to the millisecond.
While these things might seem roughly common place at any higher end establishment – Alma’s staff had a bit more “panache” when it came to little details that make all the difference, and do not go unnoticed.
Alma, Lisbon: The Food
OK, so the food.
Alma currently (and at the time of our visit) offers two tasting menus. Alma, Chef’s vision of more traditional Portugal flavors and concepts and also the dishes that he has become more known for over the years and Costa A Costa, a journey into Portugal’s vast array of seafood and fish.
Both menus list five to seven items which can change depending on when you visit. It should be noted that the five to seven items listed on the menu, at any given time, should be considered the “base” of the meal. In total, we had somewhere around nine to ten plates (each) brought out to us, including several amuse bouche, a few mid courses and additional desserts.
Leena and I have a practice of ordering distinctly, even if we are looking at the same item, so that we can share a bit of everything – so we opted for one of each menu.
I am not going to do a disservice to the Chef and staff at Alma, trying to remember the name and individual elements of every dish. I will, however, break down some pictures and description of each course as they came out.
Amuse Bouche
The various amuse bouche plates consisted of fennel Dashi with Cucumber jelly, Red Pepper “Fries” with Red Pepper Coulis, Roasted Pork Skin, Octopus with Beetroot a Pureed Fava Bean and Tuna with Black Olive. There was also a mushroom puree dish, in addition to a blueberry consommé with Parsnip sorbet as a palate cleanser and Alma’s popular bread service.
Important to note: NONE of these dishes were listed on the tasting menu, and all were a Chef’s “surprise”.
Couse Plates
The course plates are the ones that you are shown on the menu. Ours (collectively) had such highlights as Carrots with Bulghur, Scarlet Prawns, Crispy Pork Belly, Salted Cod and Sea Bass and a Foie Gras dish.
Dessert Plates
Always. See. The Dessert. Menu.
Anyway, here are the desserts they brought us. The standout from the menu was the “Sea Flavors 2.0” that, while I cannot really explain it, makes the essence of seafood work really well as a dessert. To be clear, we are not talking a seafood forward taste, however subtle hints of the ocean swirl around a sweet dish. It is wild. The other stand out, however not listed on the menu, was without a doubt the truffle plate. In particular, there is one truffle, designed to encapsulate the magic of a pastel de nata (Portuguese egg tart) that does so, perfectly. In addition to that, we were served an orange dish and a pear dish.
Alma, Lisbon: Final Thoughts
Look, I am going to say it – and not even feel really bad about saying it. This was the best food experience I have ever had, to date. Every dish was better than the last and the entire 4hrs went by in a flash. The idea that you are surround by the magic of Lisbon, doesn’t hurt.
Also important to note, is that I was skeptical if I could even eat nine courses. As we got closer to our reservation date, I began stressing that the amount of food would have me one wafer thin away from explosion, in glorious Monty Python fashion.
While I cannot speak for everyone, I’ll say that given the amount of time the sitting lasts, and the carefully designed plate sizes, we left very satisfied without feeling super uncomfortable, Crohn’s and all.
The other thing worth discussing, is cost. $200 a person, before tax, gratuity and alcohol is not for everyone.
That being said, if you look at the price of your Alma Adventure as the cost of a “day out” experience instead of “just a meal”, it becomes much more palatable. We found it to be worth every penny, but that decision is entirely up to you.
Have you been to Alma? Would you like to go? Give us your thoughts below!
