CONTENTS
1. Why Big Island?
2. The Eruption of 2018
3. The Lava Community of Pahoa
4. Things To Do On Big Island
5. Respecting Hawaiian Culture
6. Cost Cutting on Big Island
7. Trip Highlight Video
8. Final Thoughts
I think I could write a thousand articles about Hawai’i based on a thousands trips (I may, still) and never quite capture everything that needs capturing. In fact, I think I could visit a thousand times (I may, still) and never quite experience all of Hawai’i. Or, even have the same trip twice, for that matter. Hawai’i might have been the inspiration for the phrase “you had to have been there”, as anything I write based on any of the times that I have been there, will not even begin to do the experience justice. That being said, as I have been working so hard to build the infrastructure of this website (pages, forums, etc) , I still feel compelled to use my last trip to Hawai’i’s Big Island (or “Hawai’i Island”) as the focus of my first travel journal. I guess my intention is not that you will live vicariously through my experience(s), but that you might be inspired to do some further research and maybe get yourself to one (or all) of the islands.
Why Big Island?
When most people think Big Island (or even research it) the first thing that comes to mind, or is brought to their attention, is Kona. Famous for the coffee exported and enjoyed by the mainland, Kona is a frequent destination for those visiting Hawai’i and, in particular, Big Island. If you know where to look, you will find nice white sand beaches, good food and excellent snorkeling. There are also huge resorts and a Bubba Gump Shrimp Co., which are both indicative of a particular type of tourist and price tag. If you find yourself preferring the comfort of a beach resort and piles of fried shrimp to a jungle adventure, local fruit and freshly caught fish, Kona might be your preferred destination (and, by the way, nothing against that). For the rest of you (and who I believe are my core readers), might I suggest a trip East to the Pahoa region of the island.
Truth be told, choosing an Island to visit in Hawai’i can almost be as fruitless a task as choosing a favorite child. Each is unique in its own way, and you will visit each for different reasons. As we planned this recent trip to the islands, what we found most important to us (this time) was being entrenched in history and local cultures, along with a desire to be adventurous and explore. We were looking for less crowds and more opportunities to fall (bass-ackward) into something entirely “once-in-a-lifetime”. The irony being, we likely could have found all those things on any of the islands.
I am telling you, the choice can be painful. Ultimately, the tipping factors were Pahoa’s equidistant offerings of volcano, jungle and beach on its eastern side. All of which converge beautifully at the doorstep (quite literally) of our final destination, in the community of Leilani Estates.
OK, so a couple of things to unpack there. For starters, it is important to note that Hawai’i does not have any incorporated cities. Instead, its boundaries are listed as Census-Designated Places (CDP) You may now be asking, “WTF is a Census-Designated Place?” Don’t feel bad, I had to google it to get a real understanding (if you can even call it that). A CDP is an area of population that has been recognized by the government (the Census Bureau) for statistical purposes only. In other words, a community (but not yet a city). This is an important distinction, which we will explore a bit when we get into the long history of Hawai’i, but especially important here, as we get into the recent history of Pahoa, specifically.
The 2018 Reshaping of Big Island (The Short Version)
Mount Kilauea is located on the Southeastern side of Big Island. The volcano, which is the home to Pele, the Hawaiian Goddess of of Fire and Volcanoes, is the most active volcanic mass in the world. The goddess Pele is known to locals as Pelehonuamea, “She who shapes the sacred land,”.
In 2018, true to her name, she did just that.
The 2018 eruption of Kilauea, very certainly, reshaped the landscape of Hawai’i’s Big Island. Taking out over 700 homes, redefining roadways and coastlines, the event made it clear that Big Island of 2019 and beyond, would be different than anything that came before it. The below graphic (from USA Today) is a strong representation of (though still not as impactful as seeing first hand) how the damage affected the landscape.
Since 2018, however, the people of Pahoa have begun to reclaim the land and rebuild the communities that were affected by the eruption.
Living Off Grid & On The Rocks
Pahoa, now, is something completely different. Small communities of tiny homes and off-grid stilt homes, built on the now-cooled volcanic rock that has covered the land in a 360 degree view, make up the entirety of Leilani Estates. Homes like The HaKuma House, an Airbnb owned by superhost Jade Chen, one of the first people to act on rebuilding the CDP of Pahoa. The community is now simple but astonishing. The homes are all on solar power and tank water (if any) and there is nothing but lava rock as far as the eye can see. The below pictures are all taken from the HaKuma House balcony, and I promise, do not even remotely convey the feeling you get from being there.
The community is just a few short miles from the coastline in most directions, as shown below, but also as close as you can get in a few of them due to road closures.
Aloha Through Activity
The feels that Big Island gave me are indescribable (but, I will try). From being able to see an active volcano eruption in Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, to getting up close and personal with sea turtles, manta rays and (not as) up close and personal with humpback whales headed to Alaska, to seeing the region through its food, every minute is a treasure. You can’t help but start to feel the aloha vibe. I could literally spend a week going over everything we did, but here are some of my highlights.
Volcanoes National Park
White, Green and Black Sand Beaches
Eating (and Drinking) Like The Locals
Chasing Waterfalls (and Other Landscape Tableaus)
Getting Wet
Uncle Robert’s Wawa Bar
Respecting Hawaiian Culture
I honestly cannot convey adequately the feelings I get looking back on this trip (or really any trip to Hawai’i I have had). If given the opportunity (see below for some tips) I can’t recommend it enough. That being said, it is very important to understand the history and culture of Hawai’i in order to be a respectful guest. Hawai’i and her people are very welcoming to guests and thrive on tourism, however, we need to remember that, though the US made Hawai’i a state, there is still a bit of contention with that decision and a reluctance to recognize it. It is this determination that allows the islands of Hawai’i to feel entirely different from the mainland, so it is important to honor and support where it came from. Many Hawaiians still believe firmly in the Kingdom of Hawai’i and, when we visit from the mainland, we should as well. My top 5 tips for having a respectful visit are:
- Read a Book – It is important to understand how Hawai’i began to really appreciate what it is today. There are many books on this subject, so read one that calls to you. Two personal favorites are Shoal of Time: A History of the Hawaiian Islands by Gavan Daws and James L. Haley’s Captive Paradise: A History of Hawai’i
- Malama ka ‘aina i ke kai (take care of the land and ocean) – Do not go where you are not permitted and especially look out for sacred sites. The Islands have a deep connection to land and sea, and take this very seriously. “Kapu” means “taboo” (in other words, do not enter).
- Understand what it is to be Hawaiian – Terminology is important. There are many people who live in Hawai’i, but not all of them are Hawaiian. This term is reserved for families native to the Islands. If you are uncertain of a person’s history with the Islands, refer to them as locals (as opposed to Hawaiian)
- Support Local Business – Spend your money wisely and support the people of the Islands.
- When In Doubt, Ask – It is ok to be unsure, as long as you are humble. Ask permission for anything you are unsure about. And if you make a mistake, apologize and learn.
Cost Considerations & Tips For Saving Money
When the topic of Hawai’i travel comes up, often it is met with worry about expenses. “flights are not reasonable” or “a gallon of milk will cost you x because it needs to be shipped in” are some of the usual suspects. While there is some truth to some of these notions, there is also a bit of myth and ways to mitigate exorbitant costs. Here is how I kept costs down on my most recent trip out there.
Know Your Peak Seasons – The cheapest time to fly to Hawai’i is February to March. For instance, this trip I was able to fly from Denver to Big Island, one stop in San Jose for $250 RT. We also took advantage of a Southwest Companion Pass, so really $125 RT. Keep an eye on Hopper or southwest low fare calendar. Also check the other Islands for cheaper flights, as getting from one island to another is relatively easy (and may lead to an unforeseen adventure)
Travel with Friends – I realize that this is not always practical (or desired) but if you have a friend (or another couple if you are playing in 2 player mode) consider looping them into this one. Gas and groceries can indeed be a bit higher than the norm, so splitting with a crew is highly beneficial. On top of that, it will allow for an airbnb split as opposed to a hotel, and the kitchen will become a necessity to keep food costs down as opposed to restaurants at every meal.
Eat Like a Local – Yes, a gallon of milk can be much more expensive than on the mainland. You know what I did not see a ton of during our stay? cows. Do you know what was literally growing on trees? fruit (and some of the best I have ever had). Go heavy on things that are indigenous; local fruits, fresh fish, etc. The farmers markets are your friend and there is poke…literally everywhere. Also, the small local friendly restaurants are going to be WAY cheaper than the tourist traps on the Kona side.
- Pahoa Fresh Fish – for the best, local fried fish and chips I have ever had. Get the Ono. Trust.
- Pau Hana Poke – There is high quality poke everywhere. And I mean everywhere (talking to you grocery stores)…And I don’t mean the poke you see on the mainland with 1000 toppings of mess. This stuff is pure, fresh fish lightly sauced and NECESSARY if you are staying on Big Island. This is one of my favorites, but you will (and should) try different places throughout your stay.
- Ning’s Thai Cuisine – This might be one of the best Thai restaurants I have ever been to. Family run and high quality. The specialty curry is a must try.
- Ken’s House of Pancakes – Local favorite, and (if the pictures are to be believed) very frequent haunt of Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson, it is easy to smell what Ken’s is cooking. Pancakes. But, more than that. Loco Moco. This is another local staple of Big Island, and as simple as it gets; Rice, hamburger, egg and gravy (with plenty of variations if you like). Learn it, love it, live it.
- Broke Da Mouth Grindz – If you do find yourself looking for food on the Kona side, skip the fancy restaurants and grab some authentic Hawaiian BBQ here. Lau Lau is another staple of Hawai’i and you can find some of the best at Broke Da Mouth Grindz.
- Farmer’s Markets – Find your local Farmer’s Market for fresh fruit, Asian street foods (lumpia!!) and green papaya salad. You can also find some great souvenirs at reasonable prices if you have someone waiting back home for you to return. All while supporting the locals.
- Gas Stations – wait…what? Yes, do NOT sleep on gas station food in Hawai’i. Some of the best Masubi I have ever had for under $3 and fried chicken that will make your head spin.
- Shave Ice – Just get one. Anywhere. Particularly with haupia (whipped coconut cream)…you can come here and thank me later.
Big Island Highlight Video
My Final Reflection on Big Island
Even writing this brought back so many good memories. I can’t recommend Hawai’i enough, and also trying to be as local friendly as possible. It really makes for a unique experience that you will not be able to find on mainland US. With such heavy Asian influence, it is a great alternative if you live in the states and Asia is just not a possibility at the moment. Make the trip your own, but if you use or have used any of the things I mentioned above. please let us know! Just keep in mind, while Hawai’i is technically a part of the US, it is steeped in its own cultures, traditions and beliefs and as such, it is so important to be respectful of those. I hope to make a trip to at least one of the islands yearly. I hope you read this and maybe think about doing the same. Aloha!
Do you have a favorite memory or Hawai’i experience you want to share? Please comment and tell us your favorite part of the Islands.
